|
|
 |
|
|
Home Flower germination |
|
|
|
Basic
seed instructions:
Seed
need to be sown in a sterile medium, so you know just the seed come
up, not weeds that will use all the nutrients. Culterra has a
Germination mix that works for practically anything, if that is not
available, a seedling soil can also work if you mix in 20%
Vermiculite. I strongly advice however that if you are able to find
Germination mix that you only ever use that.
Take
your medium and place it in a seedling tray or pot, wet and let
drain. Level it. Now sow the seed evenly. Cover the seed with the
same mix with 2x the diameter of the seed. Wet again by either
standing in a container with water, or using a fine mist sprayer.
Place
the seed in a warm area that gets light, but not full sun.
If
you are not able to check on seed throughout the day, cover the
container partially with a piece of glass or with a plastic bag. Keep
the medium moist, not soaking wet. Make sure to remove any covering
as soon as the first sign of green appear.
Three
days after seedlings are standing upright you can start giving the
fertilizer, seedling fertilizer or a foliar spray at half strength
can be used.
Seedlings
can be transplanted when the 3rd pair of leaves has formed. |
Germinating
seeds:
Anyone can do seed
successfully in my opinion, it doesn’t require expensive equipment
or some complicated skill. It just requires a willingness to learn.
Often times instructions
are too vague or too complicated when you receive them that is why I
want to get back to basics.
I do a great range
of seed, but I do not for instance use heating mats or a grow box.
What I have at my disposal is what most people have, namely common
sense and being involved. Most of my seed are done in nothing more
than plastic basins with holes made using a normal 3mm electric
drill. Most of the time I use Culterras’ germination mix as medium.
In few exceptions like with succulents I use other mediums. The one
advantage I have over the average gardener is a plastic tunnel, which
you can compensate for by using a piece of glass.
The first step is easy:
look. As I collect rare and difficult plants I have learned to look
at a seed and see what it requires. When you get your seed, first of
all look at it. You can forever be reading and following instructions
on germinating seed, or you can learn to be observant and learn that
way what to do with the seed you find at hand. The seed you are
looking at tells you a lot about what is needed for germination.
Use these links to skip
down to relevant seed germination sections:
|
|
Basics:
Seedling tray/plastic basin method: Culterra has a germination mix that works well. But if you can’t find it, you can also use Vermiculite and seedling soil, use 20% vermiculite and the rest seedling soil. NOT POTTING SOIL-it dries out like a nightmare. Fill the container with your medium, wet with hand sprayer, and tap flat. Now with the side of your hand or a stick make slight indentations in the medium, sprinkle the seed in the indentations. I like to cover the seed with vermiculite no matter whatever medium I used as then I can see where my rows where and it is very light so the seedlings can push up easily. You can cover the seedling tray partially with glass to help keep in the moist. Place in a warm area, but out of direct sun, keep moist. Use a hand spray bottle to mist the seed when they dry out or slowly lower the seed tray into water to wet from below. As soon as seedlings appear you should remove the glass, also lessen your watering frequency and start applying fertilizer, use Seagro as a foliage spray or a seedling fertilizer. Plant seedlings out when they have made their third set of leaves.
Directly in the garden- can be done using your own medium, simply prepare the site by working in compost, be careful about adding MooPoo as it can burn seedling roots, if you want to mix a fertilizer in I suggest Bone meal, it won’t burn roots, in fact it will help root development. Now make shallow trenches about 2cm by 2 cm, line these trenches with your medium, and slightly wet it. Now sprinkle the seed out on the medium, lightly cover, wet again and keep moist. As the seedlings appear you can lessen your watering and start fertilizing.
Small seed:
If the seed is tiny you have a good indication that planting it 10cm deep is a bad idea, as a general rule most seed want to get covered by twice their diameter of soil at most. Remember they have only so much growth material stored that must reach light in order to be able to grow further. So with tiny seed often times covering them only partially is best. What is more important is the medium, you should concentrate on using the right medium, normal garden soil will dry out on the top and be wet lower down, which could mean that your seed could die right after sprouting, in an afternoon if it was windy or very warm. By the time you see the topsoil is dry they might already be long dead. My suggestion is this, either start tiny seed in a seed tray (or plastic basin with holes- my favourite as it’s deeper and cheaper) using a germination mix that stays evenly moist, or sow directly in the garden.
Some small seeds need extra treatment:
Aquilegia- chill 2-8 weeks need light
Balloon flower- needs light
Candytuft- needs light
Centaurea- needs dark
Clematis- chill 3 months
Larkspur- chill 6 weeks, needs dark
Delphinium- freeze 4-6 weeks, needs dark
Dianthus- chill 4-8 weeks, needs light
Digitalis- needs lights
Gentiana- chill 2-4 weeks
Gypsophila- needs light
Helenium- needs light
Heuchera- needs light
Impatiens- needs light
Liatrus- chill 6 weeks
Lobelia- chill 10 days, needs light
Bells of Ireland-freeze 5 days
Penstemon- chill 4-8 weeks
Petunia- needs light
Phlox- chill 2 weeks, soak 7 days, changing water every day, needs dark
Polemonium- chill 2 months
Primula- chill 2 weeks, needs light
Rudbeckia- freeze 1 week, chill 1 week
Salvia- chill 1 week, needs light
Scabiosa- needs light
Tanacetum, feverfew- needs light
Verbena- needs dark
Veronicas- chill 2 months
Viola- chill 4 weeks, needs dark |
Medium size
seeds:
Smooth hard shelled seeds. Simply
looking at these seeds suggest to me that somehow or another the
outer shell needs to be penetrated for the seed to be able to get
out. So what method does nature use? Sometimes it is simply time on
the ground that does the job, other times the acid of being digested
by an animal. Using two basic techniques covers your bases.
Scarification is when you use a
physical method to “scar” the shell of the seed so water can
penetrate the seed. Take two pieces of sand paper and rub the seed
between them, take care not to harm the “eye” of the seed as this
will harm the seed. Scarification should only be done when suggested;
there is a less invasive way to breach the outer hull, soaking.
Soaking- exactly what it says. Use
luke warm water (NOT BOILING) and soak the seed overnight in a
thermos. Next morning rinse seed and use warm water again. Soaking
periods can be 6 hours or 48 hours, generally if the seed has started
to swell you can plant it.
Plant seeds following basic seed
sowing guidelines. Pea family seeds should be planted directly in the
ground or in polystyrene cups, so they can be removed root ball
intact when transplanting.
Also check if seeds might need:
|
Large seeds
Some seed truly are large. Sometimes
it is because it is the actual size and other times it is because
there is a thick outer shell that needs to be penetrated to get to
the inner core. If the seed sounds like there is something moving
inside when you shake it, chances are has a second layer inside which
is the actual seed. Helping moisture penetrate that layer generally
helps germination. But if not actual brute force is employed, a good
warm water soaking shouldn’t do damage. Most big seeds need
constant high temperatures to germinate, so plant twice their
diameter deep and cover the seed tray after watering, and these seed
trays should do fine in full sun if only partly covered. |
Seed that need chilling
There is a simple reason some seed
respond to chilling in a refrigerator. In nature the seeds’ growth
hormones get stimulated by prolonged exposure to a certain
temperature. The reason is that should the seed experience a freak
warm week in winter, it will not germinate only to die of cold a few
days later, because nature protects it by it’s germinating being
dependant on a certain period of cold, followed by a certain period
of heat. Trees like Acers need longer periods of cold treatment than
annual as they have longer to live before seeding, annuals can take a
chance that in a short period they will be able to get around to
making seed before the cold gets them. So what to do? Once again,
easy: simply take a Ziploc bag, half fill with semi-moist
vermiculite, mix seed in and place in refrigerator for suggested
amount of time. I suggest a Ziploc bag as it will keep out chemicals
released in the refrigerator and keep in moist. I have found that if
I treat seed for a period of time in the refrigerator but plant them
out before spring arrives, so that nature does it’s part as well, I
have better results. |
Seeds that need light
Generally seed that are distributed
by wind or animals in nature might need to be only partially covered
so light can reach them. But on the other hand seeds need to be
moist to germinate, so how to do both? Actually quite easy, if you
use vermiculite to cover the seed, they should get some light, as
vermiculite is bigger than most other mediums, and therefore will let
through light, or simply cover the seed slightly, but pull a
see-through plastic over the seed tray or glass. This will let in
light and keep in moisture. |
Seed that need darkness
Some seed need darkness to germinate, it is an in build
defence the seed has, to protect it from germinating while it is
inadequately covered, which in nature could leads to a seed drying
out before proper germination has occurred. So how to accommodate the
seeds nature, without burying it where the sun won’t shine? Easy,
put a piece of newspaper over the seed tray. Lift it up periodically
to check on moisture and if any seed are germinating. As soon as seed
appear, remove the paper. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|